NYFW…

17 Feb

… seems to be doing quite well without me, which is good maybe, but still I find it offending. Anyway, Miss Winnsome asked about my favorite collections so far. That’s a good but embarrassing question, for I am far from having seen everything and almost never a whole collection suits my taste, and sometimes I would trade a whole défilé of very good looks for just one killer in a bunch of crap.

So I’m still thinking about a favorite collection. On the other hand, there’s a trend that really gets my bells a-tingling, which probably comes from this blizzard affair they suffered from so much. It’s the (use-some-fur + cold-ethnics + arctic) winter clothes in cool grays and white we get to see everywhere. I love them. Probably because they remind me of what Gaultier is doing since ten years, it’s a kind of first-love reminiscence.

Le Maestro donne le ton

Christian Cota is the obvious place to start. The guy treks, and that inspires him. (Excuse my poor & hasty gimping the pics, but I kind of like the ice western result…)

Ice grrrls

Elie Tahari does winter.

Elie Tahari

Winter shades

Fine gloves

Great top

Band of Outsiders does the hiking-style laces for the boots

Good scarf

Punky Heidi

Oscar de la Renta adds a touch of color in the mix, for a curious and gorgeous Eurasian mix.

Russian Princess, Asian side

Russia looking westward

Great scarf again

And there’s more of that spirit, here and there, with more arctic that ethnics:

Zero + Maria Conejo

Doo.Ri

Rag & Bone

All these clothes give me a sudden longing for sleigh promenades in Gstaad, and then meeting the girls for a tea time when it’s so soon and already dark.

There’s something akin in the Dennis Basso collection, something that reminds me vaguely the Eastern traditions, but I cannot really say what it is. Any thoughts?

Dennis Basso

Dennis Basso again

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2 Responses to “NYFW…”

  1. Madame Suggia February 17, 2011 at 4:29 pm #

    All I know is that, living here in SW Florida, I miss ‘proper’ winter with a passion. Real clothes! Real shoes and boots! (BOOTS!!!!!) Tailoring, faux fur, red-red-red lips on a pale face, swathes of mega faux pearls, elbow-length suede gloves, or better yet, leather gauntlets, thick wool tights, coats, scarves, big furry hats. *sigh*.

    So I must turn my head from true winter goodies, for fear of breaking down in uncontrollable sobbing and green-eyed envy. Don’t get me wrong, I love my almost-year-round linens, voiles and silk jerseys, plus you can’t go wrong with a sparkly Miss-Trish-Of-Capri style sandal, but oh how I miss winter.

    Having said that, I’ll be all over the Dries Van Noten show like a rash when it hits the Paris catwalk.

  2. winnsome February 18, 2011 at 3:21 am #

    yes i agree with you Madame Suggia I am in the sweltering Australian summer at the moment and very jealous I can tell you! But so excited about moving to London at the end of the year at which time the fur will be flying so to speak.
    And Miss Wharton yes I have also been enjoying the excess of fur this season. I completely agree with you about Cota. Look 21 was my favourite – the print with the chocolate fur and the long button down skirt was perfect in my mind.
    I agree also about how rare it is to like an entire collection I usually only like a couple of looks from a whole show – if that.
    and thanks for responding to my other comment about the grungey vibe – I really am obsessed (and currently sporting an undercut as proof), after all I was a teenager in the 90’s and have missed this type of fashion terribly, however I think I’m in luck as it seems to be resurfacing at the moment. I was thinking about a compromise between your arctic-ness and my grunge may be look 9 of Frank Tell? I liked those of his outfits which had fur in them as they gave the look a bit of structure. Good lesson for me when designing…. a bit of juxtaposition never goes astray.
    xx
    winnsome

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