That strict bitch…

18 Feb

… who lives in me almost had a 52-looks continuous orgasm while watching Ralph Lauren’s collection. Sleeker than sleek, blacker than black, with precise touches of saturated color. Ultrafeminine interpretations of menswear. A killing hat. Oh. My.

I can’t really tell you how it makes me feel, but it involves references to inflicting pain on willing toyboys, being a Russian countess in a lost train on the Manchurian border, or something of that sort. The deadly sort.

Look. I effortlessly give you twelve of my favorites, and that would be leaving some out. That’s how good it was.

If looks could kill...

... this would turn into...

... CARNAGE

What is it that gets me so much in this?

It’s the goddamn Wong Kar Wai feeling I get from any of them!!

Zhang Ziyi in 2046. I can't get enough of that girl.

And who would be sufficiently crazy not to want to dress WongKarWai-ly? Not me!

Tell me what you think of this collection.

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7 Responses to “That strict bitch…”

  1. Klee February 18, 2011 at 3:19 pm #

    Anything that evokes Wong Kar Wai is aces with me. Lauren love!

    • Miss Eliza Wharton February 18, 2011 at 3:55 pm #

      Same here… ^_^
      In the mood for love moved me so much, I’m still haunted by this crowded little space. And Nat King Cole…

      Quizás, quizás, quizás…

  2. aurumgirl February 19, 2011 at 4:39 pm #

    You hit the nail right on the head, as always. Wong Kar Wai.

    I love Ralph Lauren’s collections every year, but I don’t tell anyone that. You know why? Because he’s always showing the same collection, and he’s shown it since I was a teenager. The long, lean, elegant and rich silhouette (when his inspirations were Out of Africa, for example, or the American Southwest…I can still see a long black v-necked sleek gown set off by a single, massive silver and turquoise cuff bracelet. I hunted for months to find that cuff bracelet–not his, but one actually made in the southwest). There was the year he was inspired by English dandies (which I’m sure he’s revisited recently) and the year he was inspired by Bonnie and Clyde, where he sent molls down the runway in long pinstriped pencil skirts, turtlenecks, berets, and ankle strapped d’orsay pumps. Same silhouette each year, different cinematic influence. Every few years, his interest is renewed and refined and re-expressed. Not with the same perspective, of course–more like an extension of the original envisioning.

    I like to imagine he watches a lot of DVDs.

    • Miss Eliza Wharton February 19, 2011 at 6:32 pm #

      Well, he pays a price: he doesn’t get the all the buzz.
      You won’t reach this kind of flawlessness when you invent something from scratch. But in this I tend to concur with Glen Gould: pioneers are certainly all right, but art reaches culmination with the full maturity of the expressive powers of a style. You have to wait for Mahler and Richard Strauss to hear the full extent of what Beethoven was inventing.

      But I don’t recommend trying to explain that to a fashion world fixating on the notion of ‘right now’ and its corollary of obligatory innovation. (A rather puerile notion this ‘right now’ if you ask me, but I’ll get back to that in a full post soon).

  3. Manolo the Shoeblogger February 19, 2011 at 6:29 pm #

    The Eliza and the Aurumgirl have already intuited this, but of all the designers, Ralph Lauren is the most consistently cinematic, by which the Manolo means that all of his clothes look like they were designed for the movies.

    And when this works, when the movie his head is the good one, his clothes are stunning. And when the movie in his head is not so good, his clothing is costumey. (Notice how often the movie in his head is this one.)

    • Miss Eliza Wharton February 19, 2011 at 6:47 pm #

      Ah, a quite complex argument in this case: the collection is reminiscent of a movie which adapts a novel which is mainly inspired by social practices where fashion was of prime importance.
      One may argue then that it is only fitting that fashion feeds on what fashion produced in the first place.
      I don’t know, and would like to hear your thoughts about it, whether it is important that Gatsby has been filmed. Do you claim that Lauren is more influenced by the images of the movie than the fashion of the 20s?

  4. aurumgirl February 19, 2011 at 9:46 pm #

    You know, I always thought that Ralph Lauren designed the costumes for The Great Gatsby, because he is so often credited with them–but the truth is the designer was Theoni Aldredge. He first got to work in the movies with Annie Hall.

    That being said, the costumes in Gatsby are one of his templates, a mix of classic, luxurious, and contemporary (they are very 1970’s). Fitzgerald takes a stab at describing how fashion indicates status in his characters, a theme Lauren is still exploring every year. It’s as if he’s like Gatsby himself, using every symbolic means possible to show Daisy he’s worthy, he’ worthy now. Its an interesting obsession for someone who started out life named Lippshitz.

    What he trades off in “buzz’ he gains in sales: all the clothes in his collection are classic and wearable, and they can easily be adapted to look good on any body type (I’m a plus-size, and those styles are the ones that look great on me). There is a reason he’s one of the most wealthy men in the world, and one of the few fashion designers on that list of the wealthiest. He’s definitely figured out how to communicate a particular style we can all “read” instantly.

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