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Some random thoughts…

2 Jun

… about a painting from french artist Thomas Saliot.

Street Light

1. Contemporary figurative painting owes much to Photoshop filters. It’s kind of sad.

2. Shorts and micro skirts look much better if your thighs are thin enough to let the light shine through.

3. Don’t do T-shirts. If you do anyway, mind the bag: it should blend with the rest of the rags.

4. Booties still look good at the warm end of spring.

If you think…

26 May

… (as you should) that this girl and her fur

Badass, next generation

are shit-hot (pardon my French), then you probably want to hear Lika Volkova, who designs with Alessandro DeVito under the label SANS and did the above jumpsuit. The girl is smart, and not like in smartphone. She’ll give you something to think about.

A piece of tailoring maestria (AW 07)

... and a piece without, but no less interesting (SS 10)

This won’t be any news…

19 May

… to any of you, but there was a fashion orgy at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala Benefit earlier this month. Many celebs did their best to impress, which unfortunately often translates as re-enacting the prom night (deeeep sigh). Just a precious few caught the message of this year’s theme (Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty) by either going McQueen or savage…

But let us be fair, there was a lot more real fashion on the red carpet this night than usual. Looking at the pics, I found two of these women deserved special mention.

#2: Christina Ricci in Zac Posen

Morticia's true heir

The pixie won a special place in my heart as Wednesday Adams, a literal killer. She often goes back to the gothic chic of the Adams universe, with much brio. Here in a fabulous Posen number, with the designer himself as the non plus ultra accessory.

(Wanna be cruel? Look at the sorry excuse of a prom-queen behind Christina…)

Fashion hot tip: don't go out without your dress' designer

#1: Anna Wintour in Chanel

Chapter XXI: How A Prince(ss) Should Conduct Him(Her)self As To Gain Renown

What a lesson in class! No matter how hard the competition, Anna Wintour still rules the red carpet queendom with an iron fist in a sequined gown. She totally wins the title and you won’t find a better picture to illustrate chapter XXI in Machivelli’s The Prince (a great read by the way), which begins thusly:

NOTHING makes a prince so much esteemed as great enterprises and setting a fine example.


17 May

… on Van Beirendonck. He may sometimes transcend his camp-LGBT manerism, and reach genius.

Color madness

For no better reason…

17 May

… than sheer capriccio, I decided today had to be dedicated to the infamous Antwerp Six.

The way they were, all badass

From left to right: Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene. The guys rocked the 88 edition of the LFW, making fashion like there’s no tomorrow, and some of them still are quite the ass-kicking mavericks they once were.

Fugit irreparabile tempus

Now watch me as I arbitrarily single out those I find still alive:

Ann Demeulemeester. Taking goth up to real fashion, and it’s not even kitsch (it’s a miracle).

Patti Smith's league

She’s not that much into Spring and Summer stuff… fun and sun? I don’t think so.

As summery as it gets

But as I say, she does miracles. Like she takes a nurse’s pair of birkies (ie an abomination) and make them sexy.

Can you believe it? I can't.

Walter Van Beirendonck is so gay it hurts, but in a good way.

Papa Bear

He has a quite distinctive take on male aethetics, one I find refreshingly at odds with the mainstream.

The real guys

Dries Van Noten‘s face is not that interesting, and I’m not sure he lives up to the reputation of the six pack. Yet he’s good at fluid and effortless.

An acid drop on a restrained look

Like said: fluid and effortless

And this is precisely what you want to wear for a late afternoon smoke looking at the birds over the harbor.

So it’s Spring…

11 May

… and I want flowers on my dress. Am I so literal I’m lame?

And no thanks Miuccia, I don’t want bananas. I even think they’re a friggin‘ disaster these bananas everybody seems to praise. Do I need to check my head?

It seems so if you look at SS11 collections. Those designers seem to think that flowery springs are below them. Except the English ones, that is. God bless the Brits, who still have some sense of what May is all about. My wealthy counterpart minds her own business in some alternate universe wearing any of these:

Vivienne Westwood

Sarah Burton for Mc Queen

John Galliano for Dior

A girl may dream, doesn’t she?


23 Mar

… is not only an astute bon mot, and a fascinating tumblr, it is also a shop where some pretty good tights can be purchased online for a hefty £42. A design I find particularly tasteful in an exercise (patterned tights) where disaster is always close.

Pattern your legs!

I could totally wear that…

23 Mar

Henri-Francois Mulard, Portrait of a Woman, ca 1810

Notice the butter gloves. I hear you, my little shrimps, asking as one should always ask: “this is very well indeed, but what about the shoes?”

Donna Karan's cork and wood platform sandals

With just the right amount of exoticness to compliment the somewhat Hellenic spirit of the outfit.

Architecture is not necessarily…

23 Mar

… synonymous with austerity, even when you practice a relatively restrained classicism. At least, there may be some discrepancy between your architectural aesthetics:

Paris' Pantheon by Jacques-Germain Soufflot

… and your sartorial choices:

Floral Madness

I want to thank E. from Academichic, who offered this embroidery bonanza as a reference of the extreme variability of the (gendered) meaning we assign to such and such aspect of our clothing.

Color Theory…

21 Mar

… is quite a fascinating subject and should be on the curriculum of any wannabe fashionista. As you may know, Goethe is something like the father of the field where optics meets aesthetics, both as a theory of perception and as a theory of fine arts. Here are two interesting passages from the sixth part of his Zur Farbenlehre:

§ 841: People of refinement have a disinclination to colors. This may be owing partly to weakness of sight, partly to the unceertainty of taste, which readily takes refuge in absolute negation. Women now appear almost universally in white and men in black.

§ 845: The scale of positive color is obviously soon exhausted ; on the other hand, the neutral, subdued, so-called fashionable colors present infinitely varying degrees and shades, most of which are not unpleasing.

Musing on the internet, I found Manolo’s excellent friend’s excellent friends’ excellent friends are doing a bit of very very good fashion oriented popular color theory. You must check that.

Colorwheel from

Up to now, there’s four parts to the course:

  1. The wheel and the two thirds
  2. The neutrals
  3. Triads
  4. Applied investigation